Vintage Kart Parts

02/23/2022

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On February 16th, 2022, Steve Miller’s mobile home and shop were burned to the ground by an … Bill Pryor needs your support for Help Steve get his life back!

01/01/2020

Brian has reopened the store. he'll be adding stuff daily i think. https://www.vintagekartmall.net/

01/01/2020

Brian has reopened the store. he'll be adding stuff daily i think. https://www.vintagekartmall.net/

09/15/2019

heres a link to the torque values on mcculloch and the seal interchange chart

09/15/2019

guys have been asking again about making a kart motor from a mcculloch saw.
as i've posted this stuff in the past but that was long ago.

so here one more time is the basics for breaking a saw down to it's power head.
i lost count a long time ago (quit counting when i passed twenty) but there's been many saws that i've converted
all have made great kart motors

short version, remove all chainsaw parts
replace intake and stuffer with kart ones.
add either mc5 crank or crank extension.

or use the max torque clutch specifically made for this conversion . call and ask jim for details.

you could go the extra bit and add a kart piston too.
done😎
grumpy dave

this is a slightly longer version but it should be of help to those who want to tinker and won't want to wait on me getting something online.
this is an article that i'llpublish sooner or later on the net.
warning if enough people pester me i'll change that to SELL so Be patient please.

the first thing is to get your tools handy.
you'll need a flat screwdriver or two, a bunch of sockets, and a few wrenches and pullers.
you start by removing the bar.
then remove the front aluminum handle.
take all the screws out of the top of the gas tank. theres some that hide pretty good especially near the gas cap and back near the rear handle.
after all the screws are out gently pry the gas tank cover off.
if it doesn't pop off check for a missed screw, some hide under all the oil imprenated saw dust so look carefully.
but sometimes you have to pry pretty hard.
with the top off remove the screw holding the felt filter thingy and take out.
theres two (sometimes four) screws/bolts under there that need to be removed.
at this time you can also pull the carby as the bolts are easy to access.
save the carb, they're usually pretty good tilly's or flat backs.
remove the two lower bolts holding the carb manifold also take out the third one near the gas tank. take out manifold.
flip the saw on it's back.
remove the bolts holding the rear handle to the power head.
now the handle and lower gas tank should seperate from the powerhead. you have to kinda jigger the handle to get the gas bar clear. also be sure to cut the kill wire from the switch. be sure to leave as much as possible on the power head.
remove the four bolts holding in the oiler next. one of those bolts is a pain. i've got a ground down socket that fits to make bolt removal easier. most of the oilers will have a steel stuffer that also holds the oil in the oil tank. you need this part to keep stuff out of the motor so pop it off.Important put the saw over something that'll catch the old oil or you'll refresh the oil finish on your bench!!!
now it depends on which saw you have.
on all clutch removals you need to find the small hole in the fan cover thats used for pinning the flywheel. it's down near the powerhead on the back of the fan cover. put a small point , allen wrench, pick or whatever thru the hole and rotate the motor till you can push the pin a little father in . the motor shouldn't be able to rotate now. turn to the other side and remove the clutch nut.be careful some are left threads - some are right.
at this point the bigger saws require alot more parts removed to pull the gearbox.
smaller saws require the clutch to be pulled.
use a clutch puller regardless. i ruined a crank being impatient by hammering the nut to loosen the clutch. take five minutes and build a puller if you don't have one. i used a scrap of angle iron , two screws that fit the threads in the clutch and an i bolt with a nut threaded on.i just drilled three holes one in the middle and two to fit the puller span on the clutch.
i put the big bolt thru the middle hole and thread the nut on .install the two puller screws and then tighten the middle nut so it lifts the angle iron away from the clutch. you may have to tap the middle rod a little to get the clutch to let go.
remove inner clutch and pop off the key.
take out the gear drum.
now you'll need to clean the motor of the years of goo.
depending on which motor you have you can then add a manifold and stuffer, mount it and run.
or with the step cranks you'll need to change the crank or fit up an adapter.

dave😎

that is the start of the advise.
a fuller thread is located in the link below
https://www.vintagekartforum.com/showthread.php?tid=302

04/13/2019

Vintage Kart Guys, we have been closed as a store for a long while. while i could say we are re-opening soon i know that is probably not true. my life is far too busy to reliably ship sold items and i still haven't found anyone to replace me. meanwhile advances in vintage parts repops and vintage parts have advanced alot. here is a good parts site to visit
Margay Vintage Parts Margay has a ton of stuff. they are NOT a restoration shop they are selling off new old stock they still have. the qaulity is exactly the same as when the parts were sold new. that said they also do occasionally make mistakes . the inventory offered was obsolete for many years and wasn't always tagged correctly. patience and understanding with any possible mistakes goes alot further than calling them up and yelling!!!!
https://www.margay.com/shopmargay/Vintage_Margay_Parts/

04/13/2019

Vintage Kart Guys, Brian has reopened the store. he'll be adding stuff daily i think. https://www.vintagekartmall.net/ advances in vintage parts repops and vintage parts have advanced alot. here is a good parts site to visit this guy has been around forever here's his blurb About Classic Kart Shop…
Classic Kart Shop is ONE, OLD man, that does this stuff out of a garage! Please try to remember that when you get yourself into a time crunch. If you have a project working, and going to need a part in a month or two, order it now! I do run out of stuff from time to time.http://www.classickartshop.com/products/

TERMS OF SALE: Payment is up front only. Products are shipped cheapest way, generally USPS Priority Mail, and run between $10.- $14. for most packages. Larger stuff goes FedEx Ground, and must go to a street address (not PO Box). Insurance is suggested on every order, at buyers expense. Once the pac...

04/13/2019

Vintage Kart Guys, we have been closed as a store for a long while. while i could say we are re-opening soon i know that is probably not true. my life is far too busy to reliably ship sold items and i still haven't found anyone to replace me. meanwhile advances in vintage parts repops and vintage parts have advanced alot. here is a good parts site to visit the bennetts site is heavy with reproduction parts . they are expensive but a class act and their parts are stunning......

12/17/2018

best rebuild on mcculloch i've seen. consider it gospel for your vintage mcculloch kart engine rebuild efforts.

11/08/2017

heres a link to a new article on the forum.enjoy

10/13/2017