Tork Motorsports

06/05/2026

This is what makes the difference between a good engine overhaul kit, and a great one!

This is why I upgrade the rod bolts on the 1.6 turbo engine for KIA...

06/03/2026

See, these are the things that happen in the background that I never get to talk about, which sucks.

Not going to cash shade on any company, but this would have caused a massive exhaust leak, sent false signal to the primary o2 sensor, and possibly ended in engine failure.

Application, 2021 Elantra N-Line 1.6 Smart Stream Turbo.

What are you looking at, the start of flattening the catless downpipe, and the final flattened fl**ge. This took a solid 5 or 6 minutes on the belt sander with 120 grit belt. I the first hit, the fordt 2 or 3 minutes of sanding and what we had at the finish.

Not our product, not pur customer and yet... cleaned it up for free because I didn't want him suffering a catastrophic failure.

(If you are uncertain as to what you are looking at, it's the shinny sport vs non shinny indicating the high and low spots of the fl**ge sealing/flatness).

06/01/2026

Ok, more Fiat content!

Cam cradle/upper head carrier. The factory bolts are OK, torque to yield one-time use type stuff. Is there a market for a $199.00 upgrade for this retainer?

In the picture, I am showing stock (black bolt) next to an upgraded 12 point with a full retention washer. Then, two upgraded bolts, one with partial retention washer and one with full retention washer. Then you can see the bolts (both stock and upgrade with no retention washer.

I am at a crossroads here with basic engines and bolt upgrades retention hardware. The reason being, does the community want the best holding power, or do they want affordability?

All our Stg 3 and Ultimate engined will come with this hardware, but should every engine come with this upgrade? I mean, every engine gets the upgraded springs, why not upgrade the hardware/retention components?

I am trying to keep costs down on the engine packages, but this just seems to be a smart upgrade given the initial low costs?

Hit me with you feed back!

05/20/2026

OK... trying to get some pricing sorted for the head studs for the Fiat 1.4 Turbo.

Why in the hell are these prices all over the place? One place wants $700 shipped the other guy wants $110 shipped (I don't think these are actual ARP head studs).

So, I got the good 12 point nuts, full block engagement, proper length (which is so important on these engines) and we only have .015 to .030 of stud protrusion out of the top of the nut. This is MINT! This is how a head stud is suppose to be engineered!

Base washers are .670, base nuts are .620, again... perfect fitment and alignment to the head engagement platform.

I didn't do the 625 aged studs, this is just costless waste for a race part that doesn't need to be a race part. The ARP2000 series materials is great, will do the job and considering we have 10 studs holding the head down, I mean... how much power is it going to take to actually lift a head?

I want to land in that middle price area, but I think these are the only engineered studs for the platform. Should I charge that $690 price tag? I don't think I should, and given you cannot get a standard head bolt not that torques over 40 ft lbs before it stretches (yes... this is yet another issues for the community I will be talking about) and the factory bolts would get to 58/62 ft lbs before they would stretch... uhg, stock bolt options are no longer a good solution, so head studs are a mandatory thing now.

Damn it... $495.50?

Or, should I put together some head studs/gaskets combo's and see how affordable I can get these down to?

I wish I was independently wealthy, this way I wouldn't have to charge more than cost on this stuff, ugh.

Get ready for some more Fiat content/shorts/reels/videos addressing a ton of things with the 1.4 engine that we have exposed and are going to share with the community!

05/12/2026

So... FYI

With more and more tuners hitting the market that do not have shop, dyno's, or in-car experience... we are going to see more and more engine and trans related failures.

In the last 2 years I have watched the respective communities that I tune for get over a dozen new tuners, which 90% of them do not have dyno's or shops. In that last 2 years, I have seen more engine, head gasket, injector, trans, and fuel system failures than I have in the 5 or 6 years combined. The crazy thing, no one seems to be talking about it, and when someone does, the flood gates open with customer complaints.

I don't see the complaints online either, which is odd. I get emails, DM's, phone calls, and sales with customers asking in the comments section, "will these head studs stop lifted heads".

I sell 15 sets of head studs every month for different plat forms, and get 4 times as many emails asking about the cost, or install of our head studs. This means, there are a lot of lifted heads in the communities I support.

For years I have put emphasis on shops needing to have a dyno to figure things out about the car, limits, shift shock loads, etc only to be laughed at in those communities. Now I feel justified given I have seen more tune related engine and trans problems, than I have in the last 15 years.

People will still push back on this, people will still remain silent, and people will still say "their car runs fine". Which is great, but the push back on needing a dyno or shop or shop cars? I will never understand that. The remain silent so you avoid the mob attacking you online, because "there tune is just fine", well... I have lived that nightmare. And, last... just because "your car runs fine" doesn't mean that the guy running E40 with a failing fuel system that was not tuned properly is going to run fine. I am sure that there are fueling or tuning or mods on his or her or the other car that don't match that of your car.

I know I am not going crazy, I know that I do my best to help the communities I am apart of. But lately, it seems that no one really cares, and just wants to be that popular person in the group with the newest and latest ghost cam, and flames. I am not even going to get into how bad these ghost cams and flames can be on the engine if not done properly... and now people are going to ask how to do it properly and my reply to that will be, "WHY WOULD I HELP MY COMPETITOR MAKE A BETTER PRODUCT"?

Let me ask you:

1. Do you think owning a dyno is important?
2. Does the investment in a shop/shop cars seem valuable?
3. Time in the seat, thus... tuning time. Would you rather have someone who has an understanding of engine operation tuning your car or do you want someone who has ChatGTP helping them understand low speed pre-ignition, ring land stack, or over-square/under-square engine configuration?
4. Is being right more important to you, then being told you are wrong? I tell people all the time, "don't do that" and in return, I am told, "well so and so does it online". I have to stop my customers from making costly decisions because I want there car to live a long happy life.
5. What is more important, knowledge or experience and if you could have both for a little more $ spent, would you spend it there?

I am trying to remake myself, but I am not popular because I tell people far to often that they are wrong in their assumptions or what the internet has told them. How do I make myself more "likeable", help people, while telling them or others that this or what is being said is wrong?

Send a message to learn more

05/10/2026

Cylinder head options... I am struggling with this because there are so many ways to configure a cylinder head.

With or without:

Cam
Valves
Pocket porting
Runner porting
Curtain porting
Oversize int/ex? Just int? Just ex?
Upgraded valve seats?

Our standard head will be, high rev kit, Mahle valve stem seals, and exhaust pocket port.

This is like the "Stg 0" head, or should we make it the Stg 1 head? Uhg...

There are about a dozen or more different ways to process a cylinder head and I want to avoid that at all costs, because the configuration can get poor flow values.

I am thinking of the highest flow per upgrade and leave it at that. Reason being, stuffing oversize valves in a non ported head just seem like a waste?

05/07/2026

It's a long video, but very detailed.

https://youtu.be/vcu97FpaiyE?si=SGWWXuPmAerHyt8Z

Watch if you are trying to reinstall your MA brick on your 1.4 Fiat/Jeep/Dodge engine.

Enjoy!

Enjoy the videos and music that you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

05/04/2026

05/04/2026

I am happy to announce the official Fiat 1.4 Turbo MultiAir engine program.

Options, pricing, and full details will be listed on the website soon (still finalizing pricing of components). But, let's get you a few details.

Stg 1 engine:

Hastings chrome rings, ARP rod bolts, king engine bearings, coated stock pistons, 3 angle valve grind, lash adjustments for proper ex and int operation (video coming soon), high rev valve spring set, Fiat NA cam (mild upgrade), Gates complete timing kit, properly set cam timing, modified oil pump (more pressure and stress relieved gears to control the high rev valve spring kit), new head bolts and 4 layer head gasket.

Stg 1.5 engine:

Everything listed above, with adds/replacents for head studs, light head porting into valve pocket, light exhaust side port work.

Stg 2 engine:

Everything listed above, with adds/replacents for forged rods, forged pistons, additional combustion chamber port work to unshroud the "curtian" of the valve to bore boundry area.

Stg 2.5 engine:

Everything listed above with add or replacements for full ported head, reworked combustion chambers, over bore to 72.5mm to clean up the valve boundry area.

Stg 3 engine:

Everything listed above, but... this is where things get interesting. 73.0mm bore, with 1.7mm oversized intake valves and 2.2mm oversized exhaust valves, mandatory clutch/flywheel balance with engine assembly, full head race port with CNC'ed combustion chambers (fitted to the 73mm bore), Commetic 73mm 4 layer head gasket, and coated King Race bearings,.

There will be additional pictures getting loaded for the respective engines as they get added to the website.

Option:

Powder coating
Refurbished MultiAir
New Multiair
Multiair springs
Fully assembled options (intake manifold, turbo system, upgraded injectors, oil cooler)
Race Cam (track only)
Thermal coatings for exhaust manifold, aftermarket downpipe, turbo exhaust housings, or ???

All engines will come with a basic 12 month, 12k mile warranty against defects. What is a defect? Obviously not a bad tune, failed injector, abuse, lack of maintenance, ect. But, more details about that will be listed on the website.

For now, enjoy the pictures!

05/02/2026

OK... I want to help the Stinger community but I need to explain what's happening.

But.. I don't know how.

Let me enlighten you?

So, the Stinger/G70 have dual GEIBOS which are driveline rubber isolators that stop the harsh shifts/feeling harsh shifts. These are "designed" to stop or dampen the shift quality of the trans/TCU tuning. With a TCU tune that is to aggressive you will get:

Two flex discs (front + rear), the driveline behaves like:

spring → mass → spring

So under load:

Apply torque → guibos wind up
1–2 shift happens → load briefly changes
Guibos release stored energy
That energy travels back upstream
Then “second bump / ghost shift” you feel from to aggressive TCU tune.

Before I go any further, does this make sense?

Do I need to do a video?

There has been a huge increase is transmission failures related to this and TCU tunes being set too "high" or commanding to much torque on shift. I am not going to mention any names but one particular company has a Stg 3 TCU tune that has racked up over 20 + transmission failures. I am not calling anyone out, but if I can help people identify this "ghost shift" feeling, they can reach out to the tuner and have them back down the shift pressure/commanded torque at shift.

The AWD will suffer so much more than the RWD because the RWD cars will be able to wheel spin on shift/ghost shift vs the AWD cars that have to absorb all this "wind up" that transfers back into the trans.

God, I hope this makes sense?

If not, please... comment below and let me know if you want me to try and post a video of the drivenline, guibo's and the design that requires a bit of moderation in the TCU tune, in order to save the trans from upstream torque spikes.

Please, comment below if you need something visual.

Thank you,

John