MB Scooters Ltd

MB Scooters Ltd With over 45 years of experience, Mark has likely tuned more Lambretta cylinders than anyone else — over 2,200 and counting.

We've redesigned, improved and manufactured hundreds of parts for classic Lambrettas, enhancing both reliability and performance. To offer a "one stop shop" of quality parts to owners of Classic and Vintage Lambretta Scooters. To offer a back-up service that is 2nd to none pushing the limits of performance whilst maintaining reliability and combining this with our walk in shop and collection of vintage vehicles.

IS THIS THE OLDEST MAN STILL ACTIVE IN SCOOTERING?At 85 we think he is our oldest customer.This is John Ronald, we did a...
22/05/2026

IS THIS THE OLDEST MAN STILL ACTIVE IN SCOOTERING?

At 85 we think he is our oldest customer.

This is John Ronald, we did a video interview with him and his brother Norman - which you can see on our MB-S Tv channel.

He visited us to have his Vega engine repaired and strengthened, he was so impressed with our set up and quality of work he asked if I would shorten the handlebars for his new build.

So I did and thats what he’s holding.

It’s always lovely to see him, he’s full of stories and history that not many have left, as he was there at the time of history.

He brought a book to show us his Vega history and it turns out we was at the same function in 1987 at Chesterfield.

It was nice to talk about old engineering and tuning practices way before my time and he’s as interested in the scene today, asking me questions about my Lambretta and other things.

As he was leaving, I noticed he had left his wife in the car. At that I asked if she was interested in 2 wheels - the answer was no but I still ushered into our show room - and she didnt want to leave, with some more nice stories and memories talking in the sunshine.

Just one of those impromptu meeting to remember!

So do you know anyone else in Scootering who is older?

15/05/2026

I was editing a new video and thought I'd share a look at Marks homemade engine stand!

WE’VE BEEN INVESTING AGAIN - Once again anything to make our lives that bit easier……….We’ve already got a big ultra soni...
07/05/2026

WE’VE BEEN INVESTING AGAIN - Once again anything to make our lives that bit easier……….

We’ve already got a big ultra sonic parts cleaner - that was expensive and I mean very expensive! And it’s expensive to drain it down and fill with the cleaning chemicals which doesn’t take long to get contaminated if you’re throwing in everything!

I’ve now got our workshop set so our Ultra Sonic parts cleaner - is for Sunday best to finally finish parts after all the dirty work is done and the parts that come out of the Ultra Sonic stay super clean. So if I’m doing an engine rebuild that’s where I’ll drop and leave parts to get cleaned ready for assembly - including carb overhauls.

We have a workshop full of cleaning machines. We’ve got a massive automatic parts cleaner, but I didn’t get on with the finish and is now my desk down the workshop. If we have an engine with a thousand years of crud, we can use that one. We’ve also got a manual smelly parts cleaner, well we have a few of those dotted around! We have our Rumbling polishing machine. And we have our Shot, Bead and Aqua blasting machines. And we have our outside portable petrol high pressure cleaner.

But there was something missing - can you believe it - we needed ANOTHER parts cleaner - this is where our new one comes in.

This cleaner is heated and I mean heated! So hot in the winter it’s a pleasure to warm your body, in the summer it’s, well - hot very hot! It works cold, but it works so much better when the fluid is hot. Hot watery chemical soaps come out at a high pressure, in a machine what is like a sealed sand blasting machine, so you don’t get wet, or smell of horrible fumes all day! It’s super clean and makes cleaning parts a pleasure! We can now throw anything in and it cleans 10 times faster than anything we’ve had before. We now don’t have to think - will this dirty part contaminate our Ultra Sonic cleaner!

Parts that come out of the Rumbler can come out with some residue and little bits stuck to parts, other parts can go rusty if you’re not thinking about it before you go home. The new cleaner washes away any residue and also stops rust flashing. Out of the rumbler into the high pressure cleaner.

Parts that come out of the Bead and Aqua blaster can get hidden bits of grit which gets places you wouldn’t expect and you don’t want that coming out in a fresh engine rebuild - this is where our new high pressure cleaner comes in. It washes and loosens away any super fine bead particles.

The first day we got it, I used it 3 times and I’ve used it everyday since!

It’s now used to clean oil and oxidisation before we do any work. It’s used to clean off any grinding dust after work and any oilly residue from machining. And another bonus is, it blows out anything in casing threads! The parts come out hot and dries it’s self, or we drop it into our heater next to the cleaner.

And this cleaner has built in air so you can blow off the soap and clean parts even more.

In the photos I grabbed some of our dirty eBay parts, to give you an idea what it does. There’s some original paint items with over spray, it takes off overspray quiet easily but it doesn’t wash off paint unless it’s flaking and it washes off the 70 year old oil and once dried, everything is clean to fit again!

We also have a soak tank with the same chemicals for the really bad parts that you need to chisel off crud.

Now this machine was also very expensive! Not as expensive as the ultra sonic or the rumbler but enough to buy a Tv/Sx 200 or a nice car off Mathewsons!

It’s just another service we can offer, not that people come in with boxes of bits to be cleaned! I guess you all like to be hands on and smell all day. I don’t like working with dirty parts and dirty hands. Parts with oil on is not good to alloy weld - it contaminates welding rods and the welds. With all our cleaning services anyones who’s had work off us find their parts land on their door step super cleaned ready to fit.

All this comes at a cost! You all know your gas and electric has doubled at home - you want to sit on our side of the fence! The equipment we buy is expensive, it’s expensive to run and it’s expensive to service and overhaul these things!

We’re getting bombarded with service bills from suppliers left right and centre! It’s unreal the bu****it someone in an office can invent to add more to an invoice! So unfortunately we’ve had to start adding some cleaning, heating and drying surcharges to some jobs.

Now not every Scooter shop will have one of these!That will be maybe for 2 reasons…..1) Do you really need it? 2) They a...
05/05/2026

Now not every Scooter shop will have one of these!

That will be maybe for 2 reasons…..

1) Do you really need it?
2) They are not cheap!

So do you need it?

Well we had a bike in for clutch slip! It just so happened we was out of stock of our MB-S clutch springs but had sets of springs around the workshop but didn’t know who’s or which strength of springs they were! This made an interesting and frustrating day trying to cure something by guessing.

It doesn’t matter how or who presses a spring in by hand, as much as you think - you can measure a spring by hand you can’t tell it’s strength!

So once again we invested in new tooling. What - how much? They’re pretty much all from China, most wanted £600-800 for postage only!

We took the plunge, it came and wow what a revelation. I’ve worked with springs all my life, it’s not until you get different sets of the same springs you can realise what is happening.
The idea is, you zero the gauge, put the spring in place and compress it and note the readings. You then times a spring by 5 to find the total strength of a set of springs, you can do the same for a 10 spring clutch. The more we measure different sets the more we can directly compare to other suppliers.
Sounds simple - but then you have to work out where is the spring compressed in use!

It’s this measurement that tells you the strength of the spring and IF it’s going to do its job!

A clutch spring is at its strongest when it’s just about coil bound, thats when all the coils are crushed to a point where it can’t compress any more.

There’s two things also going off that you need to think about. Okay you mainly want to know the strength on the gauge at near full compression, you can compare different makes of spring at the same point. This would be for tuned motors so you don’t get clutch slip. But for some motors, you don’t have to worry about clutch slip as you want to set a clutch for an easier pull - this is something more and more people are asking for in our old age.

The gauge shows a stronger and weaker spring. Something to bare in mind.

But you also need to know when a spring is totally coil bound - what is the measurement? A spring that coil binds before another, means when you pull in the clutch lever/cable/clutch arm/clutch pressure plate you need to know if the pressure plate locks solid on the springs creating clutch drag as it can’t go any further to give free play for the clutch to part! If your springs won’t allow the extra movement to part you will get clutch drag and never cure your issue. For instance some springs compress solid at 16mm were others compress at 13mm! Thats 3mm of space you are missing out on - thats a friction plate and steel plate or could be 3 steel plates!

Which means if you use a 16mm fully compressed spring you need use thinner clutch friction plates and/or steel plates! Or if you have a stronger spring but allows more movement you will need to stack the clutch more with either more plates or thicker plates to compress the spring to near coil bound.

Now if you set up a clutch knowing the springs are at its strongest nearly compressed, you have to back off a bit to allow for 1.5mm movement once everything is assembled. So in use when you pull the clutch lever the clutch assembly is compressed and allows for fee movement to part the plates so you have maximum clutch spring strength without getting clutch drag!

Take this information about how we test springs with our spring tester and this tester runs alongside our static clutch set up tooling fixture which means we can cure your clutch slip and drag really easy on the bench with all the different friction and steel plates that we manufacturer with your parts also.
There are other factors which is in our Clutch rebuilding set up in our MB-S ‘Tech-Site’.

Our spring tester doesn’t just do clutch springs! It will also do gear selector and kickstart plunger springs - and it’s surprising how they differ. If you have a gearbox that jumps out of gear it could could be a weak spring - but it could be also something else, also covered in our gearbox rebuild section in our ‘Tech - Site’. If your kickstart plunger slips as you’re trying to start the bike it could be the spring and you’ve guess it, it could be something else - its all in the ‘Tech-Site’.

Well it’s a small simple looking tool that I guess no other dealer uses, but can make our lives much simpler.

We can find the strength of springs and compare and we can find if a set of springs are miss matched - with strong springs and weak springs.

If you are not sure, we can test your springs for a small fee then you know as much as we do!

⛽🛵 With everything going on at the minute, fuel and oil prices seem to be going one way… UP.With the situation around Ir...
18/04/2026

⛽🛵 With everything going on at the minute, fuel and oil prices seem to be going one way… UP.

With the situation around Iran affecting markets, everyone’s feeling the squeeze at the pumps and on everyday costs.

So we thought we’d do the opposite. 👊

After the latest shipment arrived this week, our 2 Stroke Oil is now £1 PER LITRE CHEAPER than normal to help riders out during the current madness – and just in time for the season getting underway. ☀️🏁

https://www.lambrettaspares.com/mrb0999.html

17/04/2026

🏁 Mark and 9 other RT owners are off on a 3-day ride out through Snake Pass and around the Buxton area! 🛵💨

A proper weekend of roads, scenery, laughs and hopefully plenty of miles covered. Wishing them all a safe trip, no accidents this time 😅 and plenty of good footage for us all to enjoy when they’re back.

Enjoy it lads 👏🍻

11/04/2026

We’ve built what we believe is the Ultimate Lambretta drive bearing 🔧

✔️ Extra drive side seal to stop oil getting into the drive plate area
✔️ Takes load off the standard crank seal = better long-term reliability
✔️ Upgraded from 7 to 9 balls for improved load distribution
✔️ Ceramic balls for strength, heat resistance & higher rev capability
✔️ Supplied with O-ring to stop oil leaking behind the bearing

These are landing soon 👀
👉 Join the waiting list: https://www.lambrettaspares.com/mbp0438.html

🎥 Full deep dive video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cl5kFYfAbbw

📖 More technical info here:
https://mbtechsite.co.uk/portfolio_category/fitting-engine/

WAS ON MY MIND SO I MADE THISAs part of some research for a MB ‘Tech-Site’ article on rear brakes - something had been n...
25/03/2026

WAS ON MY MIND SO I MADE THIS
As part of some research for a MB ‘Tech-Site’ article on rear brakes - something had been niggling me…..
I needed to double check rear hubs and cones.
The week before had me doing a 3 day 1-2-1 with a customer to build his engine to RT200 Reed spec. His hub on inspection was a ‘Borgo’ make, I’d never seen or heard of one before. He remembered buying it around 1974 as a replacement. Part of the rebuild was checking the rear hub and it just occurred to me I needed to make a new tool.
I found a copy of the old workshop manual and found the figures, but something wasn’t looking right. I went to work and checked the Spanners manual and the info was the same, as I was stripping off an untouched series 2 rear hub as it happens Sticky phoned on another matter for the new Spanners manual.
It turns out the information came from the old manual which was incorrect. Now this had me and Sticky in our parts bins looking for cones and hubs and double checking cone angles to part numbers.
What was wrong was how they quoted the figures, they quoted 20, 11 and 8 degrees! What I found was the quoted 8 degrees is measured on one side, the 11 degrees is actually a 5.5 degree cone quoted as double degrees and the 20 degree very early version is so rare we never found one but guess its a 10 degree version doubled up to 20 degrees!
So its seems cones are 10, 5.5 and 8 degrees, 5.5 been the Series 1/2 and 8 degrees the later versions including Gp, Spanish and SIL.
I didn’t find any other angles in my spares, Sticky did, but I’ve have come across oddballs before.
My idea for the tool was - I could easily check what cone I had in my hand and what cone angle is in the hub. Fitting a cone in a hub is a guess, as you can’t clearly see if it is actually a correct angle. You couldn’t tell if that hub has the correct 5.5 degree cone of a 5 degree cone.
Now with my new checking tool I can see what is actually happening.
All in an afternoons work.

22/03/2026

Address

Pitman Road, Denaby Main
Doncaster
DN124LJ

Opening Hours

Monday 8:30am - 5:15pm
Tuesday 8:30am - 5:15pm
Wednesday 8:30am - 5:15pm
Thursday 8:30am - 5:15pm
Friday 8:30am - 5:15pm
Saturday 10am - 3pm

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