Kubala Tools

Kubala Tools Since 1987, we design and manufacture hand tools shaped by the needs of professionals worldwide.

26/09/2026

🛠️ What Are the Most Common Mistakes When Mixing Self-Leveling Compound?

A good self-leveling floor starts long before the compound reaches the surface. Here are some of the most common mistakes to avoid 👇

The first is estimating the amount of water by eye. Always measure it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. After the first mix, the compound may seem too thick, but don’t add extra water — let it rest for the required time, often around 5 minutes, so the chemical components can react properly. After mixing again, the consistency will usually become more fluid.

Another mistake is skipping the expansion tape, especially on larger surfaces. It helps accommodate movement and stresses that could otherwise contribute to cracking.

💡 Don’t forget priming. It helps equalize the absorbency of different substrates so the mixing water isn’t pulled out unevenly and the compound can dry more consistently.

And finally: proper application matters too. Poor spreading and skipping the spiked roller can affect the final result and leave trapped air in the compound.

Always follow the specific mixing ratios, resting times, and application instructions provided by the compound manufacturer.

Save this and follow for more practical flooring tips! 🛠️✨

22/09/2026

🛠️ How to Apply Self-Leveling Compound Evenly?

Pouring a thin layer of self-leveling compound? The right tool helps you control the thickness across the entire floor 👇

For this job, we’re using an adjustable screed rake, set to approximately 7 mm. Once the height is set and locked, simply spread the compound across the surface, maintaining a consistent layer as you work.

💡 Need a thicker layer? Just adjust the spacer elements to the required height. Their rounded shape also helps the tool move smoothly across the floor without catching on elements such as electric underfloor heating.

In this case, the rake can be quickly adjusted from around 7 mm to approximately 10 mm, depending on the required thickness.

Simple adjustment, consistent thickness, and better control over the self-leveling compound. 🛠️✨

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20/09/2026

🧱 How to Smooth a Wall Without Sanding Dust?

Want a smooth wall without traditional sanding and all the dust that comes with it? Here’s how the dust-free wet method works 👇

First, check whether your skim coat is suitable for wet finishing. Spray a small area with water, let the excess run off, and once the water has absorbed, rub the area gently with your hand. If the skim coat becomes soft or starts to break down, it’s not suitable for wet finishing and should be sanded traditionally.

If it passes the test, thoroughly dampen the wall — a roller makes this quick and even.

For smoothing, you can use one of two dedicated floats: a DUREN float or a sponge float. Their dense, closed-cell structure provides the right firmness for working the surface.

💡 Soak the float in water first, then squeeze out the excess. It should be damp, not soaking wet. Work it over the wall to smooth out any remaining marks and imperfections.

The result? A smooth, ready-to-finish wall without sandpaper or sanding dust. ✨

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18/09/2026

🧱 How to Finish an Internal Corner Faster? – Method 2

Here’s the second method for finishing an internal corner — this time using a roller and a flex internal corner trowel 👇

Start by preparing the roller. Lightly dampen it with water and remove the excess before loading it with compound. Applying compound with a roller can be 2–3 times faster and works well on standard internal corners, obtuse angles, and other types of corners.

The technique is simple — work up and down, just like when painting, making sure there’s always enough compound on the roller.

Next, fold the tape, position it along the joint, and gently press it into place. At this stage, most of the work is already done.

💡 Now use the flex internal corner trowel. Its rounded edges help prevent catching or damaging the plasterboard paper. With one smooth pass, you can finish both sides of the corner at the same time while properly bedding the tape into the compound.

Once dry, apply another coat to fill any remaining holes and imperfections and complete the finish.

Want to see the more traditional method? Check out our other video, and save and follow for more practical plasterboard tips! 🛠️✨

16/09/2026

🛠️ Which Mixing Paddle Should You Use for Ready-Mix Gypsum Compound?

The right mixing paddle can make a big difference to the consistency of your compound 👇

For ready-mix gypsum compound, we’re using a Turbo mixing paddle. Its design helps minimize the amount of air introduced into the material during mixing.

Because it’s a passive mixing paddle, it doesn’t aggressively pull the compound down as it rotates. This gives you better control and also keeps the process much cleaner — the material stays inside the bucket instead of splashing everywhere.

💡 And one important rule: always clean your mixing paddle immediately after use. It’s much easier than removing dried compound later and helps keep your tool in good condition.

The right paddle = cleaner mixing and properly prepared compound. 🛠️

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14/09/2026

🧱 How to Finish an Internal Corner? – Method 1

There’s more than one way to finish an internal corner — here’s the first method 👇

For this job, we’re using a stainless steel trowel with an ergonomic handle and rounded corners. The balanced grip makes it more comfortable to work with, while the rounded corners help smooth the compound without leaving marks.

The second tool is a spatula with an extended edge, which helps keep the compound from spreading onto the adjacent wall.

For internal corners, use a setting compound rather than a regular finishing compound. It creates a stronger and more durable finish.

Apply enough compound to both sides of the corner to bed the tape. In this case, we’re using Tuff Tape, which makes the process faster and easier. Position the tape, press the center gently into the corner, then bed both sides into the compound.

Finally, remove the excess material with the spatula and smooth both sides until the tape is properly embedded and the surface is clean.

💡 A second coat will be needed to cover any remaining holes and imperfections.

In the next video, we’ll show you a second method for finishing an internal corner. Save this and follow! 🛠️✨

12/09/2026

🧱 Why Should You Prime the Floor Before Tiling?

A properly prepared substrate is the foundation of a durable tile installation 👇

Priming serves two important purposes. First, it evens out the absorbency of the substrate, helping the tile adhesive dry consistently instead of losing moisture faster in some areas. Second, it improves the bond between the adhesive and the floor.

For this job, we’re using a roller designed specifically for gel primers. Its structure holds the thicker, non-drip material really well, so you don’t need to reload the roller as often.

💡 Just one load of the roller was enough to prime around 6 m² of an absorbent floor in this example.

So, should you prime before laying tiles? Definitely. It prepares the substrate properly and creates the right surface for the next stage of the tiling system.

Save this and follow for more practical tiling tips! 🛠️✨🧱 Why Should You Prime the Floor Before Tiling?

A properly prepared substrate is the foundation of a durable tile installation 👇

Priming serves two important purposes. First, it evens out the absorbency of the substrate, helping the tile adhesive dry consistently instead of losing moisture faster in some areas. Second, it improves the bond between the adhesive and the floor.

For this job, we’re using a roller designed specifically for gel primers. Its structure holds the thicker, non-drip material really well, so you don’t need to reload the roller as often.

💡 Just one load of the roller was enough to prime around 6 m² of an absorbent floor in this example.

So, should you prime before laying tiles? Definitely. It prepares the substrate properly and creates the right surface for the next stage of the tiling system.

Save this and follow for more practical tiling tips! 🛠️✨

10/09/2026

🛠️ How to Remove Dried Compound After Plastering?

Cleaning up after plastering doesn’t have to be messy 👇

For larger areas of dried compound, a floor scraper is the easiest option — especially if you want to work comfortably while standing.

For smaller spots, use a multifunctional spatula to scrape the material off quickly and precisely.

💡 You can remove compound while it’s still wet, but that often creates more mess and can be harder on your tools. In many cases, it’s easier to let the material dry first and remove it afterwards.

Small area = multifunctional spatula.
Large area = floor scraper.

Quick, simple, and much less mess.

Save this and follow for more practical finishing tips! 🛠️✨

08/09/2026

🌱 Can You Use Spiked Shoes to Aerate Your Lawn?

Spiked shoes aren’t only useful on construction sites — they can also come in handy in the garden 👇

Spiked shoes designed for screeds work a little differently from dedicated gardening versions, which usually have sharper spikes for easier soil pe*******on. But the principle is similar.

By simply walking across a compacted lawn, the spikes create small holes in the soil, helping to:

🔹 Loosen compacted ground
🔹 Improve soil aeration
🔹 Help water reach the root system more easily

💡 The best part? There’s no complicated technique — just put them on and start walking.

Sometimes construction tools can find a completely different use outside the job site. 🛠️🌱

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06/09/2026

🛠️ Which Mixer Should You Choose?

The right mixer depends not only on the material, but also on how much you need to mix 👇

For smaller quantities of adhesives and screeds, a side mixer is a great choice. It mixes efficiently around its axis, doesn’t aerate the material too much, and easily breaks up any lumps in the mixture. Because it doesn’t pull the material in by itself, you need to move the mixer around the bucket to achieve an even consistency.

💡 For larger quantities — for example, a 33-liter bucket — a larger propeller mixer is the better option. Its design pulls the material down and pushes it back up, creating continuous circulation throughout the bucket.

Another advantage of the side mixer? It requires very little effort to control, even when working with one hand.

Choosing the right mixer means faster work and a properly mixed material. 🛠️

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