02/09/2026
The Deadliest Climb in American History | Denali 1967 Pt 1 - The Art of Adventure, Arthur Beale's podcast.
In the summer of 1967, twelve men, most of them strangers, set out to climb Denali, then known as Mount McKinley. Their leader, 24‑year‑old graduate student Joe Wilcox, had recruited nine climbers with almost no experience of the mountain. The remaining three were a Colorado team forced to merge with Wilcox’s group after losing a member in a car accident. It was an uneasy alliance on one of the harshest peaks in North America.
Denali then was a different world: no rescue service, no reliable forecasts, radios so weak messages had to be relayed through Fairbanks. The climb from base to summit is greater than Everest, and its Arctic position means the death zone begins far lower.
On 15 July, four men reached the summit in perfect weather. Three days later, seven more radioed from the top as cloud swallowed the mountain. It was the last transmission anyone ever heard. What followed was the worst storm ever recorded on Denali with climbers still on it.
Andy Hall joins Hugh Taylor for the first of a two-part series. An Alaskan journalist and former editor of Alaska magazine, Andy has a personal connection to this story: in 1967 his father, George Hall, was superintendent of the park, and Andy was five years old and living inside the crisis as it unfolded. His book Denali's Howl draws on five years of research - tracking down the survivors and rescuers, and unearthing the lost tapes and documents of that summer, including recorded interviews with his late father. Denali's Howl: The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America's Wildest Peak is out now.
In Part 1: the mountain, the men, the merger that shouldn't have happened, and the decision to split the team that has been argued over ever since.
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